Category: trip

What do We Eat at Le Touquet-Paris Plage? The “Rattes” de Touquet ! plus a Recipe by Chef Guy Martin, and some Fish “Vierge Sauce” Too !!!

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What do We Eat at Le Touquet-Paris Plage? The “Rattes” de Touquet ! plus a Recipe by Chef Guy Martin, and some Fish “Vierge Sauce” Too !!!

En Español, en color!

I guess most people have never heard of a place in France called, Le Touquet Paris-Plage. Likewise, and less probably even, most people have never eaten a “ratte de Touquet” ! No, the French don’t eat rats! but they do love a special type of potato that is called “ratte”. And actually, the name comes from the fact they look like little rats, but gastronomically speaking, these potatoes are highly appreciated because of their fine skin, excellent consistency and slight taste of chestnut! They are called the “caviar of potatoes” and are produced in the area of Le Touquet, hence the name…..

Creo que poca gente debe haber escuchado hablar de un lugar en Francia llamado Le Touquet Paris-Plage. Y todavia menos gente deben haber comido una “ratte de Touquet”! No, los franceses no comen ratas! pero si les encanta este tipo especial de papa que se llama “ratte”. Y en realidad, el nombre viene porque las papitas parecen ratas, pero desde el punto de vista gastronomico, estas papas son las preferidas de chefs y gourmets por su piel fina, excelente consistencia, y un ligero perfume a castañas…Se les dice “el caviar de las papas” y se producen en la zona de Touquet, de ahi el nombre…

In fact, these potatoes were on the verge of disappearing, but only six local producers decided to “save” them, and perpetuate the type. Yes, only six!! If you understand French, you can watch an interesting video about these potatoes here. The “ratte de Touquet” is the perfect pair for fish, chicken..you can use it in salads…chefs love it because they keep their shape and consistency even after twenty minutes of steam cooking (I love them that way!) but here, chef Guy Martin boils them to make a rustic purée (smashed with the fork) and adds extra parfum of oranges in his olive oil…The result is a perfect mixture of rustic/refined…I’m sure you will love!

Lo increible es que estas papas estaban por desaparecer, but seis productores locales (si leyeron bien..solo seis!) decidieron unir esfuerzos para “salvarlas”. Si entienden francés, pueden ver un video buenisimo sobre estas papas aqui. La ratte de Touquet va perfecto con pescado, pollo…en ensaladas..Los chefs las prefieren porque conservan su consistencia aun después de veinte minutos de coccion al vapor (asi me gusta a mi!) Aqui, el chef Guy Martin, sin embargo, las hierve para hacer un puré rustico, pisadas con tenedor, y le agrega un aceite de oliva a la naranja…Mas facil, imposible! sin embargo, con ese “touch” rustico/refinado…casi shabby-chic! (si ya sé, me fui por las ramas!) 

You have two choices: either (if you know French) you admire Chef Guy Martin preparing this purée here  (and I advise you to do this, even if you don’t know French!) or you follow the recipe of this humble blogger in this post! Here I decided to present the “rattes” with some fish cooked on a skillet, with just a little bit of olive oil, and sprinkle it with “vierge sauce“, that is nothing but tomatoes, diced, shallots, thinly sliced, basil and chives, chopped, olive oil and a dash of lemon juice…

Aqui tiene dos opciones: o bien (si entienden francés) miran el video del Chef Guy Martin haciendo el puré aqui ( y los francofilos de para bienes, con su acento impecable, y su “erre” cuando dice “ratte”, o pueden leer la receta traducida por esta humilde servidora! Yo aqui elegi acompañar las papas con un pescadito, hecho a la sarten, con un apenitas de aceite de oliva ( bien crocante del lado de la piel) y lo “salpiqué de salsa “vierge”, que es la mezcla de tomates cortados en cuadraditos chicos, echalots picadita, albahaca, ciboulette, aceite de oliva, un chorrito de limon, y sal y pimienta, of course! 

 

Now why did I go to Le Touquet in the first place? Because it was my wedding anniversary, and I had always dreamt of spending one night in the splendid, mythical Westminter Hotel. This hotel has seen kings and queens, presidents, actors walking through its door…and Cristina, of course! And I love le Touquet, because it is “Oh, so chic”… The weather was not exactly what I had dreamt of …well, it was sunny, at least (in Paris the sun seems to have been kidnapped!) but it was cool? cold? Not exactly “le joie de vivre” (the happiness of being alive ;D

Ahora por qué fui a Le Touquet? Porque era nuestro aniversario de casados, y yo siempre habia soñado con pasar una noche en el esplendido, mitico Hotel Westminster. Este hotel ha visto pasar por su puerta a reyes y reinas, presidentes, actores…y a Cristina! (yo! no la Kirchner!) Y ademas me encanta Le Touquet porque es “taaaan chic”! El tiempo no fue exactamente lo que habia soñado….bueno, hubo sol por lo menos (el sol es un lujo asiatico para los parisinos este año…alguien lo vio? para mi que lo raptaron!) Estaba fresco…frio? Si, el tiempo no fue exactamente “le joie de vivre” (la alegria de vivir) ;D

Finally, the backstage of my photo session: birds of prey this time? my daughter C and my dog, loyal Gaucho! And THIS is the proof of my renowned (?!!?) cooking skills…Is there a better cook than mum?

Finalmente, el “backstage” de mi sesion de fotos: las aves de rapiña? mi hija C y mi perro, el fiel Gaucho! Y ESTA es la prueba de mis famosas (??!!?) dotes como cocinera….Hay una cocinera mejor que mamà?

Wouf!! that’s Gaucho speaking…..
Guau!!! Ahi hablo Gaucho!

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An Italian Moment: Summery Ricotta Tart, or When Inspiration Comes from the Amalfi Coast (Part I)

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An Italian Moment: Summery Ricotta Tart, or When Inspiration Comes from the Amalfi Coast (Part I)

Geometric & Arithmetic accuracy for cutting and placing strawberries is required..AND patience!

Finally, with one year of delay (Yes, the volcano decided to keep quiet this time!), we were able to make our planned trip to Italy..the Amalfi coast, to be precise. And every time I go to Italy, I realise how much Italians have influenced the life, the memories, the taste of all Argentinians. The star of afternoon tea, coffee, or mate has always been in my family the ricotta tart…with its sweet lemony taste, and the special texture of ricotta…Of course our ricotta tarts were not like this one, they were more simple,  like this one here. The one that I made for you is more of a “renegade”(?!), yes…like an Italian country village girl that dreams to be “Parisienne”….

But this is what these images of Sorrento inspired in me…I remember reading that many English poets, like Byron, D.H.Lawrence, or American Henry James went to Italy in search of inspiration..Some of them dreamt of Italy but never stepped on Italian soil..like Shakespeare, but he despicted so well the Juliet’s balcony in Verona, that we all believe that balcony really existed, when it did not (sorry to spoil the business of Verona’s tour operators!!)
In any case, looking for inspiration or for lazy “dolce farniente”, the Amalfi coast is a must because of its beauty ...and good food!

This is Capri, la Piazzeta!! I could have stayed there for hours, enjoying the sun, like a tortoise, chatting noisily with my family or friends…(yes, in Italy you chat noisily!!) Of course, the only thing that would make me leave my chair would be a detour at the several luxury jewelry shops!!! Please, God or whoever is in charge of this…in my next re-incarnation I would love to be the spoilt, protected lover of some Italian viscount, who would have as only penchant to buy me rings!! I LOVE rings…Of course, I did not dare to come up with the suggestion of another ring to my husband because he (unlike my Italian viscount) would have probably locked me inside the clock tower you see in the photo surrounded by all the pidgeons (which I hate!)

Here is Anacapri (on the same island but higher). Less classy, probably more authentic..We had lunch in the little restaurant you see there, in the sun, because technically speaking, we were freezing in Italy!! (yes, only fifteen days ago, it was very cold! ) I had the best spaghetti a la vongole in my life!!! I don’t know what the cook had used, but the taste was incredible!

On another, nearly stormy day, we went to Positano..Sometimes, the lack of sunlight makes settings more dramatic, colors acquire a different hue…The little colourful houses perched on the hills,  lemons, artichokes everywhere!!! huge artichokes, the bells of the churches announcing mass, “pepperoncinos” hanging from walls…widows in black, children playing football, chianti…beautiful girls in exuberant bodies….handsome young men..perfect Roman noses….in one word? Italy!!

Initially, I was going to top the tart with pears, but when I went to the market, five boxes of “gariguettes” (extremely perfumed French variety of strawberry) were being sold at 4 euros!!! so…..

A piece of this tart and a capuccino…what can else can we expect from life? Italian heaven…!
Well…if Marcello joined me, I wouldn’t mind…(actually I would have adored an imaginary RDV with Marcello (yes, this is why I don’t quite like Catherine Deneuve!)

And you know, there are thousands of photos where he is looking so elegant in his suits..Mamma Mia!!!, but here, he is like the essence of Italy! I can imagine the face of Catherine Deneuve!!! having breakfast with him in “such a state” Oh, mon Dieu!!!
Marcello, if we had met, I would have made for you ten of these ricotta tarts!!! 
Enjoy it!!

To make this Ricotta Tart, with strawberries, you will need:


For the Pâte Sucrée: follow my eternal, classic recipe here

Then,


* ricotta, 500gr *sugar, 100gr *egg, 1 *yolks, 3 *zest of lemon, 1 *corn flour (Maizena), 1tbsp *butter(melted), 1 tbsp *strawberries, many!! (I can’t say the exact quantity because that will depend on their size, but at least 1/2 kilo)

Roll out the pâte sucrée (1/2cm high), trying to have a circle slightly bigger than the intended mold.  Put it on parchment paper, and on a baking tray. Put on top your ring mold (here 20cm, previously brushed with butter). Press so that the excess is cut. Take it to the fridge (min 30′) Remember each time you work with this pâte, that it has to be very cold otherwise it breaks easily. 
Pre-heat oven 180°C. In a stand-mixer (or a hand one) whisk the ricotta with the sugar till creamy.  Then add the agg, and then the yolks, one by one. Finally the lemon zest, and the butter and corn flour. 
Remove your mold from the fridge, and immediately, pour the batter in. Take it to the oven. Bake around 30′, till the ricotta becomes golden brown and has set!
Slice the strawberries thinly (photo) and start placing them, on the outer circle of the mold, one on top of the other, leaving one third of the strawberry free (this is difficult to explain but the photos show that clearly!) When you finish, if you are not eating the tart immediately, brush the strawberries with an apricot gelée (dissolved in a bit of water) There are also special products (gelées) for this in bakery professional shops.




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Chicken Pastilla, for the 2nd part of my Marrakech Trip! Today: La Mamounia Hotel

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Chicken Pastilla, for the 2nd part of my Marrakech Trip! Today: La Mamounia Hotel
Thanks to my neighbour M. for the props to recreate a Moroccan atmosphere! 
Et oui! Time flies…and ever since my return from Marrakech, I had been planning to make this chicken pastilla (my daughter C’s favorite!) But you know, in this race between “life” and me…”life” nearly always wins….
But most important, I wanted to share with you my visit to La Mamounia Hotel, establishment I had already visited years ago, but I had not seen after its last renovation…what can I say..I was left completely speechless!!

“The most lovely spot in the whole world”, said by Winston Churchill to Franklin D. Roosevelt
La Mamounia Hotel is located in the heart of the imperial city, nestled in a 17 acre park, only a five minute walk from the Jeema El Fna square. It has 136 rooms, 71 suites including 7 signature suites, and 3 riads each with 3 bedrooms, Moroccan salons, private swimming pools, terraces, etc. 
Over the years, it has hosted film stars like Kirk Douglas, Charlton Heston,Omar Shariff, Joan Collins, Nicole Kidman, Silvester Stallone, Susan Sarandon, Alain Delon, Catherine Deneuve, Sharon Stone, Kate Winslet….me next?
And royals..!!! and heads of state!! Franklin Roosevelt, Ronald and Nancy Reagan, Princess Caroline of Monaco, Nelson Mandela, Jacques Chirac and Helmut Khol.
French arquitect and interior designer Jacques Garcia was responsible for the hotel last renovation, finished in 2009. “The best of modern times melted to the best of tradition..La Mamounia is one of the unique places in the world, faithful to its myth” In fact, in previous restaurations the hotel had lost precisely its identity. It is Jacques Garcia who engages “la crème de la crème” of Moroccan artisans, to take the hotel back to its original splendour…
But not only that, because in different suites, his creativity took over and so we have a 7th art Suite, designed in homage to old movies, which includes a projection room and a romantic, nostalgic terrace…
The Baldaquin Suite, ideal for a 1001 nights style honeymoon. The Majorelle Suite, tribute to the celebrate painter, and decorated in “Majorelle blue“, the Churchill Suite, Marqueterie Suite, etc.
The hotel also has a 2500 square metre spa by Shiseido, indoor swimming pool treated with ozone, hamman, jacuzzi, fitness studio, etc 
As for restaurants, there are three: a Moroccan one, a French one under the helm of Chef Jean-Pierre Vigato, and an Italian one by Don Alfonso.

I was stunned by the refinement in the decoration of the Baldaquin Suites, the attention to details marvelled me! 
As I said to Ms Saydy at the end of my visit, La Mamounia is not just another luxury hotel..it is a trip to an ancient culture, to a concept of refinement in craftmanship that we westerners do not see very often…and the Moroccan people should be proud of it! 
But fairy tales always come to an end…so my chicken pastilla, typical dish of Moroccan cooking, sweet and savoury, at the same time, was the only way to recapture the atmosphere on French soil.
Originally made with pidgeon, many restaurants (even in Morocco) now favour the chicken version (a question of cost, I guess) Cinnamon, saffron, coriander, parsley and almonds, of course! 

Well…. while waiting for a future visit to Marrakech, we can start by making a chicken pastilla..Don’t you think? 

Acknowledgements:

To Ms Lamia Saydy, who kindly hosted me in this visit to La Mamounia Hotel, and provided me with all the information and photos of the hotel necessary for this post.
To my friend Y., who shared with me (and you!) her recipe for this chicken pastilla.
To my neighbour M, who lent me the props to recreate the Moroccan atmosphere in my Parisian apartment.

To make this chicken pastilla, you will need:
(yield: 4 12cm round or hexagonal pastillas)

400g chicken fillets, 3 to 4 big onions, 1Tbsp chopped ginger, 1Tbsp cinnamon powder, 4 dosis of saffron, 1 or 2 Tbsp of honey,100g roasted and chopped almonds, 1 egg, I big bunch of coriander and 1 smaller one of parsley, filo sheets



Stir-fry the chicken and then cut it into small pieces, I separately stir-fry the onions together with the ginger and other spices, then mix them with the chicken and  honey and go on simmering with a lid on for a few minutes. Remove from heat and add  the beaten egg, the almonds and the chopped herbs. Then, brush with olive oil a tart mold, place in it one of the filo sheets. Tap gently so that it absorbs the oil, and the next one will stick. Place the second one on top. Place one fourth of the chicken mixture in the center. Fold the sides of the filo sheets as if you were making a round parcel. Brush with extra oil so that it adheres. Turn the “parcel” around. Bake (180°C) for 20′ or until the crust is golden brown. Sprinkle with icing sugar and a bit of cinnamon. You can serve with a salad.

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A Friend from Argentina, a Trip to Marrakech…and Moroccan Food! Today’s Special: Kefta Tagine

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A Friend from Argentina, a Trip to Marrakech…and Moroccan Food! Today’s Special: Kefta Tagine
The Koutoubia Mosque, a masterpiece of Hispano/Moorish art

Et oui, this time I left France to go to Morocco, with one of my best friends, who lives in Argentina…My friend E. and I have been together ever since we were six years old! Not only did we go to primary and secondary school together, but we sat together!,  we shared after-school games, vacations…. One day, without realizing, we got married..not together ;D but we kept on seeing each other, sharing our lives, families….going through tough times..life has been particularly tough for my friend…we cried together, we were scared to death together..and still, here we are..friends for life! 
I decided that, for a change, we could visit Marrakech together, and we loved it! 

One of the first things tourists do when arriving in the Red City is to go to Jemaa el Fna Square: geographical, cultural, and social center of the Medina. In the past, the trading center between North and South Morocco..nowadays a show on its own: you will find merchants of all sorts, snake charmers, tooth pullers, musicians, fire-eaters...My favorite stands in the “souk” (market) are those devoted to antiques, and dried fruits: apricots, bananas, prunes and dates, of the best quality you will ever find!

After the bustle of winding alleys in the souk, it was time for tea…mint tea: the national beverage, AND some Moroccan pastries! 

Moroccan pastries are typically stuffed with almond paste, dusted with icing sugar or honey. They are VERY sweet, I love them though! 



Renowned for its good weather, our first day in Marrakech was unusually stormy!

Just losing your way in the streets of Marrakech is an amazing experience: you will find incredible wooden doors, arcades…and spices! Disneyland for me! 


You can find all the spices possible there, plus specific ones for different tagines, ras el hanout, lavender, star anise, plus herbs to make infusions to heal all conditions: saffran flowers for insomnia, rose from Damas..against constipation AND wrinkles.. hibiscus, for relaxation! Plus, argan oil! to be used not only for cooking (salads, cous-cous) but also renowned for its cosmetic properties against skin conditions such as acne, psoriasis, and in hair treatments…
After this store, we decided to go for art, and there nothing better than the Bahia Palace! 

How can I describe this jewel made by  Moroccan artists and artisans? Marble paved courtyards, stucco panels, arches, enameled terracota tiles, zellij decorations, carved-cedar for the painted ceilings…

Art, history, food, shopping….and after so much walk, a bit of “dolce far niente” in the hotel, feet in the air…

Once home, thinking about my blog and my dear readers, I thought of reproducing one of the most typical dishes of Moroccan cuisine: this kefta tagine, a classic in my family..my kids a-dore-it!! but to be honest, we always eat it at a Moroccan restaurant here in Paris, so looking for a recipe, I remembered I had seen it in Cherine’s blog: Chicho’s Kitchen, a charming Lebanese young lady, living in Paris, who will take you to far-away lands with her amazing cuisine…

You can find her recipe and beautiful photos here. I hope you try this at home, with some cous-cous!  
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